Nicaragua versus El Gringo, Part 1 – Introduction

This was my first true experience travelling out of the country. I’ve been to Canada and a resort town in Mexico, so my travel so far has been located squarely in gringo-land. So travelling to Nicaragua was a huge, frightening and exhilarating thing to do.

I took about four years of Spanish but haven’t spoken much since my last Spanish class almost a decade ago. I can understand more than I can speak. Nicaragua is filled mostly with people who don’t speak any English, despite what most of the websites about Nicaragua will tell you. Fortunately I was invited down there by my friend who has a friend that has lived there for the past two years. Having someone who knew the ropes of Nicaragua was pretty important to us, otherwise we would have spent a lot of time confused and lost.

I decided not to do much research on Nicaragua before going for a few reasons. One is that I tend to set really high expectations and end up not being fully satisfied with new experiences. Another is that I tend to focus on the negative and can scare myself out of doing something new. So I experienced this trip like plunging into a lake not knowing if it was hot or cold or shallow or deep or even filled with water. I think that was the right decision in hindsight because it kept me in the moment more often than not.

I will be uploading the best pictures of my trip to my Flickr account and be including them in context with the posts to follow this one.

Overall I enjoyed the experience. There were some pretty stressful situations, but the good outweighed the bad.  However, the bad experiences probably make for the most interesting stories.

I am going to break this post up because I came out of it with a lot to write about. The reason I am writing about my trip is mainly to record this life experience but I also want to encourage people who have not travelled out of the U.S. to get out and experience a different perspective. If nothing else I came back with a lot less fear and anxiety and much more appreciation for my own culture and society.

See all related posts here.

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Goal Expression and Planning

Big fat disclaimer up front: this is not general advice on how to structure your life. This is just how it works for me and my particular set of childhood programming.

I’ve noticed that a lot of people say that the most fun part about a trip is the planning. I remember that as a child. My parents would break out the map books and we would learn everything we could get our hands on about the trip we were going to take (that was usually months ahead of the actual trip). I remember having vivid dreams about the places that we were going to visit. I would dream of impossibly high mountains and fish so colorful that you could only experience that if you were on drugs. Although the trips would end up being memorable and exciting, nothing could ever live up to my imagination.

My roommate pointed out that we share these high expectations in common. We build up situations so high in our heads and then remain dissatisfied with our actual experiences. So instead of gushing about my goals and planning out every last aspect of my trips, I have been consciously trying to just set general plans and let the rest evolve spontaneously. I had success with this earlier this year when I took a road trip with two other friends down to the Florida Keys. We had three plans: Go watch the shuttle launch, visit Miami, visit the Keys and go fishing. Other than that, I tried my best not to spend my days researching what my experience might be. I was excited to experience a trip with three or four days of general plans but no itinerary. The result was one of the most memorable trips of my life. I had more fun with not knowing what was going to happen next. That is completely against what I am used to and it paid off.

Since then I have been applying the same principle to different aspects of my life. I go into a situation trying not to envision every possible scenario that could happen. Sometimes I can not help but fail spectacularly with this and I end up mapping out every route in my mind anyways to try to manage my anxiety. But that’s expected with years and years of a habit and I do not blame myself of it. I just stay conscious of it and move on.

If you are a natural planner (especially one that has become resentful of being burdened by this) I challenge you to try what I am trying. Try setting a general goal for a trip or a life experience. Then just experience it. You’ll find that you live more in the moment and appreciate the beauty that comes with that. You will soon find that life will really start to exceed your expectations.

Of course there’s a balance to be found between imagination and reality and I would never recommend shutting down your imagination all together. But if you’re like me and you have the tendency to set impossible expectations for reality, you’ll continue to experience disappointment rather than the joy of discovery.

On a related note, check out this TED talk on expressing your goals to others. As always, I think there is a balance to be found in extremes, but this does present some interesting points.

Also, I am conscious that a big reason I started this blog was to motivate myself to travel more through planning. I am going to shift that a bit with this new insight in mind. I am going to Nicaragua in December and have made general plans for this trip, but other than researching how possible it may be for me to be kidnapped by a drug gang, I have no expectations for this country. I’ll let you know how it goes after December 4th!

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Time Lapse for n00bs

I used to make time lapse videos with my crappy little webcam on my first computer.  It was an awesome way to record the huge weather fronts that would roll over my apartment when I lived in Columbus Ohio.  Ever since I purchased an SLR I have been trying to figure out a good way of capturing some high quality time lapse videos with it.  Here’s my most recent time lapse made with my Canon Rebel XSi.

The technique for doing this takes more patience than anything. You just need an inexpensive remote control timer, a digital SLR camera, a tripod and VirtualDub opensource software to string all of the images together. I usually take a bunch of shots to figure out the correct time exposure, F-stop, ISO level and aperture setting and then set the camera on manual with those settings and let the remote control timer take over from there. After that you unload the hundreds of images from your memory card and separate each time lapse photo group into its own folder. You then use VirtualDub to open the first image in that folder and it strings the rest together automatically. You then play around with the filters, frame rate and other settings and export it as an AVI. Once you have an AVI file you can use any video editing software to dub it to music or string it together with other time lapse movies.

Feel free to contact me if you have any specific questions about this process. It’s a lot of fun to capture nature over time. My next goal is to sit out at a park and get a good long exposure of people playing Frisbee or soccer.

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Photography as an art

Since this is obviously a new hobby obsession of mine, I’m going to write about how I see photography as an art form. There are a couple of different things I am trying to experience when I look at or take a photo. One is the feeling of actually being in that photo, in that reality, for that instant, with a completely new perspective. Another feeling is one of nostalgia. Something in the photo evokes a past memory and the feeling associated with it. I am sure I have more complex reactions than those two, but those are the prevalent reactions I can account for when browsing through my friends photos.

I took two photos tonight that I think illustrate this. The first one is of the reality that I was seeing and feeling at the time.

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The other I was trying to evoke a foggier, more surreal feeling. I think those kind of feelings are associated with nostalgia because its more difficult to make them completely real. I think that you notice the emotions more when taking a photo like this.

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Hope that wasn’t too artsy. It just made sense at the time and I wanted to write it down.

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New SLR Camera + HDR

I borrowed my friend’s SLR a few weekends ago and decided to treat myself to one of my own. I’ve wanted one for years and finally found a great deal on eBay for a Canon Rebel XSi.

One technique I’ve been dying to try is HDR. I’m not going to get into the technical details of HDR (because I don’t fully understand how it works!) but basically it takes a handful of images that are all the same, but have different exposure settings, and combines them to produce well balanced and vivid images. I use a software program called Photomatix to create my HDR images. It costs, but is worth it if you want some great photos.

Here are some instructions on how to take the AEB photos on a Canon EOS to create an HDR photo.  I always use a tripod, because the images need to line up perfectly.

Notice the difference in colors and contrast between these two photos.  The one on the left is the original and the one on the left is the original (plus the higher and lower exposure twins of it) and the one on the right is the combined images with some adjustments made by the software.

This picture that I took of my scooter illustrates the extreme effects you can create with HDR.  Not sure how useful this is, but it is fun to play with.

You can see how much more vivid the photos are when processed with HDR.  I try to make them as close to what the scene actually looked like when I was there, rather than trying to make it surreal.  When used subtlety it is great for bringing out the colors and contrast that the camera just can’t capture with one image.

I’ve been posting the rest of my HDR images to Flickr.  If it has the file name tonemapped then it is HDR.

Let me know if you have any techniques that I should try with this camera!

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Smoky Mountains – Balsam Mountain

A coworker of mine invited me to camp up in the Smokys this past weekend. He told me that he found a campground that was quiet and higher in elevation than the other camp grounds. I’ve been dying to get out of the Atlanta heat so it was a perfect opportunity.

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I call getting lost an adventure. I had an epic “adventure” on my way up to the Balsam Mountain camp. I decided to trust my GPS, as comes natural for my generation, and it took me on one of the most narrow and steep mountain dirt roads I have ever been on. My little Honda CR-V handled it well. Without four wheel drive I would not have made it as far up the mountain as I did. After being a good hour late to camp my GPS indicated that I was about a quarter mile from camp. Then the trail turned into mud pits. Knowing that the rescue teams would not find me for days this far into the wilderness I did a 90 point turn and slowly inched back to the highway to find the actual route to camp. After studying the map, I was indeed almost there, but would not have made it anyways as the dirt road no longer connects. The park service closed it off a few years ago, probably to prevent yahoos like me from coming up such a treacherous road. Despite the setback it was great fun to ford rivers and do some fairly hardcore offroading. I can vouch that the CRV is a tough little SUV.

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When I finally arrived near camp I was slowed down by some huge elk that decided to trot slowly next to me and suddenly run in front of my car without warning. Apparently they have begun to reintroduce elk into the Smokys. Despite the danger to my car, I laughed hysterically as this huge lumbering beast tried to outrun my car. It was a weird ending to my adventure for the night.

I pulled into camp and stepped out and my eyes were drawn skywards. Living in cities for the past years has robbed me of the opportunity for sky gazing. I felt so happy to see the milky way so clearly again. I tried my best to capture the sight, but I don’t have the technology to capture all of the stars.

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The next day I set out with my camp mate down another dirt road to see if I could find out where I had been the night before. I did not take the right trail, but was glad I didn’t. We came across a pickup truck full of Cherokee Indians that were out hunting. Well, I assume they were since they had beagle dogs and radio collars on them. They hooped and hollered something at us and continued down the trail. A little further on we found a couple of the beagles and were bemused when they continued to run in front of the car, not letting us pass. We passed another pickup with another group of Indians. We told them we saw their dogs and they turned back to find them. After that we had the thrill of speeding through a creek quickly enough not to stall out the engine. Again, the CRV had no problem.

My roommate joined us later that night. The mountain was enveloped in clouds and we got to eerie experience of light refracted in all directions.

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The next day we set out down another dirt road. This time we found a black bear wandering along the road. We jumped out of the car and started snapping pictures but unfortunately we forgot to change the settings on our cameras and all of the pictures were blurry. Right after that a huge black bear ran down the mountain across the road right in front of us. If you’re looking to see some major wildlife, Balsam Mountain is the place to go.

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The next night was clear and cold. We got the fire blazing and enjoyed the chill. The stars were out again, so I drove out to a point to see them in the pitch black. Again, more pictures, none of them doing the justice the stars deserve.

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Too bad winter is closing in or I would get up there again soon. The gates close in October, so until next year Balsam…

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Friends and Places

I took a trip last weekend up to my good friend’s place up in southern Ohio.  He has a large beautiful plot of land up there.

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This trip reminded me of the importance of the human element of my trips. I love to spend occasional time alone to help me literally hear myself think, so I think there is virtue in my trips by myself, but having a good friend to spend time with is invaluable as well. We spent most of the weekend talking philosophy and life and it really recharged me. It was great to bounce new ideas off of each other and learn from each others unique perspectives. From now on I will be more conscious about the people I want to visit along with the places I visit.

The next day I took a great hike in the Smoky Mountains. I climbed the peak barefoot, which made me a temporary trail legend. I did it to make it easier to climb the rocks, but others saw it as odd apparently. It was fun to pass people on the way down and them smile at me funny and say, “are you the barefoot guy?”

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Beautiful TN morning

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My view at 8am in Jellico.

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Manatee Springs Florida

On Thursday, I was looking at pictures of springs in Florida and decided to drive down to Florida and kayak one of them. I’m trying to be more spontaneous with my trips to see if they have any impact of my enjoyment of them. I asked myself, “Why not?” and had no excuse. So I packed up my car and hit the road. It was a 5 hour drive down from Atlanta to get to Manatee springs. Well, it was supposed to be 5 hours. It ended up taking 7 because my kayak rack decided to break while I was going 70 miles per hour down the 75 freeway. Fortunately the strap held and the kayak did not fall off, but it did take some time to get it repositioned. I learned a lesson, and that is if you are going to put a kayak rack on another brand crossbar, expect problems. Also bring extra tie downs, which fortunately I did. I will now need to beef up the bolts on the rack to prevent this from happening again. I spent the rest of the trip listening to “The Aquariums of Pyongyang: Ten Years in the North Korean Gulag“. I’ll write more about that book on my other blog later.

I got down to Florida expecting it to be a little warmer and more humid than Atlanta but I did not set my expectations high enough. I got there in the middle of a rain torrent that made it nearly impossible to drive. Once the rain settled the air was so thick with humidity I could not keep my glasses from fogging up. I parked and walked around camp to see where the spring is and where I would launch my kayak from. I was awe struck by how clear and blue the water was when I arrived at the spring.

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It was still raining a little so I did not get the full effect until later. On a whim I decided to bring my snorkeling gear. I had no intention of getting in the water, other than with my kayak, but I ended up spending more time snorkeling than kayaking. The water was 72 degrees which felt extremely refreshing compared to the oppressive 99 degree and 90% humidity air. It was a little hard to get into because of the contrast, but once I was in I felt alive. There were fish everywhere in the 50 foot deep spring. You could see all the way to the bottom and the current swept upwards rapidly. I could not find the cave entrance to the spring, but apparently there is one that you can go into if you have diving gear. The water was a turquoise color that doesn’t quite show as vividly in the photos.

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I tried diving down as deep as I could, but only made it about 12 feet or so before the pressure was too much for my head. I couldn’t equalize for some reason either, probably just out of practice. I then spent the evening in camp, cooking steak and drinking beer. Deer kept wandering through my camp in herds. They became annoying after awhile because they looked far too interested in my food. I started a fire and spent my evening listening to the rest of “The Aquariums of Pyongyang: Ten Years in the North Korean Gulag”. My camper bed worked out well and I got about 8 hours of on-and-off sleep. I brought a fan with me because I knew there was an outlet in the camp site. If I had not have, there would not have been any sleep.

I had to get up once in the night to use the bathroom. I forgot my glasses, and am practically blind without them. On my way back I saw a fuzzy white shape lumbering towards me. At first I thought it was a skunk so I backed away and shined my flashlight at it. It kept coming at me and I backed up until I was back at the bathroom. The light from the bathroom lit it up more and I realized it was a armadillo. I guess they are pretty blind, or fearless, because it was not going to relent the path to me. I got up to it as close as I could to check it out. I have no idea about their nature so I didn’t mess with it too much and then went back to camp.

I got up early to go kayaking. It was already pretty hot so I only ended up going 2 miles up river.

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When the 72 degree water mixes with the 90 degree humid air, fog forms.

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The river itself wasn’t that interesting other than some huge eagles and buzzards that had about 6 foot wingspans.

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There were also 4 to 5 foot sturgeons jumping out of the water and smacking sideways when they landed. I never saw one jump but kept turning my head when I would hear the enormous splash. A smaller fish jumped about 8 feet over my kayak and I did see him fortunately.

When I got back to the convergence of the spring and the river I realized how dark the river water was compared to the spring water.

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As I was circling the converging water I noticed some eyes popping out of the water. It was the first gator I’ve seen in Florida. He looked about 4 feet from nose to trail.

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I kayaked back into the spring and spent the rest of my time snorkeling.

Overall this this trip was emotionally positive. It proved to me that I can have a good weekend without over-planning. I was feeling especially grateful for being able to travel freely within the invisible boundaries of my own country, since I did spend a large part of my time reading about a North Korean gulag. I did have loneliness sneak up on me at night. I spent my time thinking about what these trips would be like with people I care about. I then felt even lonelier thinking about how difficult it is to have spontaneous trips work out where others join. I started to have some self doubt about taking a longer trip because of this. That and I was being eaten alive by mosquitoes and did not how much of that I could sanely handle on a longer trip. That’s when I remembered that I don’t have to do anything. If I decide that a longer trip is not what I want, then so be it. If I find someone who either wants to take the longer trip with me or not, I am open to the changing desires I feel as a result of this. That helped me find some peace with the feelings I was experiencing and I fell asleep.

I did also want to note that I have a negative reaction to the southern culture. I saw a bumper sticker on a big pickup that said, “Happiness is a north bound Yankee”. He also had a Confederate flag on his truck. I was the only one with a non-south accent and felt pretty intimidated the entire time. I’m not sure if my fear of southerners is justified but I always feel out of place around them. The fear comes from the assumption that they are all religious and bigoted. Being an atheist in a zealous part of the nation keeps me pretty quiet when I am outside of major cities. I don’t even like making eye contact when I am buying food at a supermarket. Also, I feel embarrassed when I have to ask the clerks what they said when I don’t understand them through their thick accents. Not sure how much my fear is justified, but it feels safer to isolate when I am around strangers in the south.

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Honda CRV Camping Bed/Storage – Test Run

I went on a spontaneous trip this weekend and decided to throw the bed in the back and see how it would fare. I had a piece of carpeting left over from a move and stretched it over the wood. I didn’t tack it in place, because I wanted to make sure it would work first.

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Overall I am happy with the way it turned out. I am 6′ 3″ and with the back folded down I could comfortably lay across it and even toss around in the night without too much trouble. I put down a backpacking mattress and used my pillow and sheet for cover. Other than the mosquitoes and 90% Florida humidity, it was a comfortable night. I do realize that the CRV is not the best option for a camping car for someone my size. The headroom was cramped and I had to turn 270 degrees to exit or enter in the side door when I needed to go use the restroom. I’d prefer a mid-sized SUV for this trip, but for now I’ve got the CRV and it will work.

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